Vegan Travel – Bit of the Good Stuff

Vegan Hiking Gear Essentials for the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB)

Published on November 14, 2025November 20, 2025 by Sharon4 Comments

Introduction

When it came to preparing for the Tour du Mont Blanc, I loved the planning stage – researching gear, reading reviews, and finding vegan-friendly options for everything from boots to snacks. (If you’re still at the planning stage yourself, you might enjoy my Top Tips for Hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) as a Vegan post – it’s where I share everything that helped us get ready for the adventure!)

Some items took a bit of detective work – vegan hiking boots and socks were a challenge! But the effort was worth it. Here’s what we packed and loved for our TMB – all vegan-friendly and tested on the trail.

Vegan-Friendly Hiking Boots
Hiking Socks (Merino-Free)
Waterproof Jackets and Trousers
Insulated Jackets (Down-Free)
Vegan Food and Snacks
Backpacks
Final Thoughts

Pin for Later ↓

Tour du Mont Blanc Vegan Hiking Gear Guide Pinterest Pin

Vegan-Friendly Hiking Boots

Finding comfortable, durable, vegan hiking boots can be tricky, especially if you have wide feet like me!

After a lot of research, I finally found the La Sportiva Women’s Ultra Raptor II Mid Gore-Tex (Wide Fit) – perfect for the TMB. Super lightweight, incredibly comfortable (no breaking-in needed!), and with excellent grip for mixed terrain. The only downside was that they did leak a little in heavy rain, but I’d discovered this on UK hikes beforehand, so I came prepared with waterproof socks.

La Sportiva Women’s Ultra Raptor II Mid Gore-Tex (Wide Fit) Hiking Boot — *La Sportiva Women’s Ultra Raptor II Mid Gore-Tex (Wide Fit) – super comfy, lightweight, excellent grip, and vegan.*

Mark opted for the SCARPA Rush TRK LT GTX, also vegan-friendly (you can filter by “vegan friendly” on the SCARPA UK website which is so helpful!) His boots were stiffer and heavier and needed a few weeks of breaking in, but after that they were really comfortable.

Neither Mark nor I got a single blister on the entire TMB hike! We were extremely happy with our boot selection.

Scarpa Rush TRK LT GTX Hiking Boot — *The Scarpa Rush TRK LT GTX – Mark’s vegan boot of choice for the TMB; sturdy and reliable for long-distance hiking.*

👉 Tip: Even boots marketed as “waterproof” sometimes leak in alpine conditions – packing waterproof socks is a wise backup!

Hiking Socks (Merino-Free)

Finding vegan-friendly hiking socks was another small adventure, as many contain merino wool. We both chose the Bridgedale Coolmax Light Hiker Socks, which were soft, breathable, and have great cushioning.

We each packed a couple of pairs of these, plus one pair of Bridgedale Ultralight Coolmax Hiker Socks for hot days (thinner and lighter, but with less cushioning).

Since my hiking boots can leak a little in heavy rain, I brought a pair of Sealskinz Wiveton Waterproof Socks with me (these have a bamboo inner, rather than merino). I was so thankful to have these – they kept my feet completely dry and comfortable on rainy days.

I also packed a small roll of kitchen towel from home to help dry my boots if they did leak – it only happened a couple of times, but I was glad to have it.

*Bridgedale Coolmax Light Hiker Socks – the perfect vegan-friendly hiking sock for the TMB. They were so comfy and had great cushioning*

Waterproof Jackets and Trousers (Fluorocarbon-free)

Good waterproofs are essential for hiking in the Alps!

I wore the Finisterre Skybird Jacket, and Mark had the Finisterre Stormbird. Both are made from recycled materials with a fluorocarbon-free, durable waterproof repellent (DWR) coating, and both performed brilliantly.

Stormbird – 20,000mm waterproof rating, more robust but heavier (Mark’s pick)
Skybird – 12,000mm waterproof rating, lighter weight (my pick)

We started the TMB in heavy rain so we put our wet weather kit to use immediately!

Mark at the TMB start arch in Les Houches — *Mark making use of his Finisterre Stormbird waterproof jacket at the arch in Les Houches – the start of the TMB!*

Sharon at the TMB start arch in Les Houches — *Pouring rain at the start of the TMB – I felt cosy in my Finisterre Skybird jacket and Rainbird trousers.*

We rolled and packed our jackets into their hoods, so they took up minimal space in our backpacks. On one stage, we went from bright sun to a torrential downpour in minutes – those jackets saved us!

I also packed the Finisterre Rainbird Waterproof Trousers (10,000mm rating), made from recycled materials with a fluorocarbon-free DWR coating. They’re super light-weight and fold down tiny into the back pocket, taking up almost no space in my packback. Worn over leggings, they were incredibly comfortable and never felt bulky. I was so glad to have them on the wet days – while Mark braved the rain in shorts and quickly regretted it when the temperature dropped!

Sharon in all her waterproof kit on the TMB — *I carried my waterproof jacket and trousers every day on the TMB, but they were so lightweight I hardly noticed them in my bag.*

Insulated Jackets (Down-Free)

Many insulated jackets use down (goose or duck feathers), which isn’t vegan-friendly, so we both invested in Finisterre Nimbus Jackets – one of our best gear decisions.

These jackets are insulated with Finisterre’s own recycled synthetic fill (a down alternative made from post-consumer waste) and have a shell of 100% recycled polyester with a fluorocarbon-free DWR. Lightweight and packable into their own inside pockets, these jackets were warm and cosy on cold summits and rainy afternoons – we were so glad we brought them!

Mark and Sharon in their Finiterre Nimbus Jackets at Punta Helbronner — On our rest day in Courmayeur, we took the Skyway Monte Bianco cable car up to Punta Helbronner – incredible views of Mont Blanc but super cold, so we were grateful for our Finisterre insulated jackets!

Vegan Food and Snacks

I have a dedicated Vegan TMB Food Diary post for full details of what we ate as vegans on the TMB, stage by stage, but here’s a quick summary of what we brought with us from the UK – plus a couple of things I wish we’d brought!

Trail mixes (nuts, seeds, dried fruit, and dark chocolate) I loved the Waitrose Berries & Dark Chocolate and Apricot & Ginger Trail Mixes – both made a welcome change from the usual plain nut-and-fruit blends.
Mixed nuts – I took two packets of Waitrose Hickory Smoked Nuts, which were such a treat, and made a nice change to the usual plain or roasted nut mixes.
Vegan protein bars – We packed a mix of Trek Protein Flapjacks, and Nakd Protein Bars. These were perfect for mid-morning or late-afternoon energy top-ups.
Vegan chocolate and flapjacks – We took the Rhythm 108 Roasted Almond Butter Bars, Graze Oat Boosts and Pip and Nut Peanut Butter Stuffed Oat Bars as treats.
Vegan meal bars – I wish we’d brought some vegan meal bars with us, as they would’ve been so handy for the more remote stages. Next time, I’ll pack some Real Meal Bars – they’re fully vegan, contain around 26g of protein, and are designed to replace a full meal.
Dehydrated vegan meals – we took four Firepot vegan meals as emergency backups (these can be especially handy if you’re camping or staying at refuges, where breakfast and lunch options can be limited). We didn’t end up needing them, but it was reassuring to have them just in case.
Reusable utensils – we each took a spork, though I wish we’d also brought a knife for spreading jam or hummus on bread!
Eco-friendly lunch packaging – we packed two small reusable lunchboxes and clip seals for closing packets.

These simple additions made a huge difference to our experience of the TMB – especially for the stages when vegan options were scarce.

Vegan snacks we took with us for the TMB — *Our snacks brought from the UK came in so handy on the trails, and a welcome change from the typical nuts and trail mixes found in Alpine supermarkets*

Backpacks

Alongside your footwear, clothing and food, getting the right backpack setup makes a huge difference on the trail. Since we booked our trip with Mac’s Adventures, our main luggage was transferred daily – so we only needed to carry day backpacks.

I did a lot of research before purchasing my backpack, and opted for the Osprey Women’s Tempest 22L which is specifically designed for the female body shape. One I’d taken the time to adjust all the straps correctly, it was so comfy – I barely noticed I had it on! The Tempest range is made from 100% recycled, bluesign®-approved nylon and is fluorocarbon-free.

TMB Vegan Hiker, Savoy, Mont Blanc — *My Osprey Women’s Tempest 22L – perfect as a daypack for the TMB – lightweight, and comfortable.*

Crossing the ice bridge in Switzerland on the TMB — The 22L backpack fit everything I needed for a day’s hike. I felt very secure and balanced wearing it, even crossing this ice bridge in Switzerland!

Mark opted for the Finisterre + Gregory Men’s Stout 45L Backpack – a bit larger than your usual day pack, but ideal for us as Mark had kindly offered to carry all our food. The pack is made of sturdy, recycled materials, a fluorocarbon-free DWR coating and came with a lifetime warranty. Like me, Mark spent a good amount of time adjusting all the straps on the backpack so that it fit him perfectly. (There are some handy YouTube videos that show you how to do this). Adjusting the straps makes all the difference between a comfy and uncomfortable pack, so it’s definitely worth spending time getting the fit just right!

Mark with his Finisterre + Gregory Men's Stout 45L Backpack on the TMB — *The expandable mesh pockets on Mark’s backpack were perfect for keeping snacks within easy reach during our hikes.*

Vegan Hiker on the Tour du Mont Blanc — *Mark with his Finisterre Stormbird jacket and 45L Backpack, set up ready for a day on the trails.*

Waterproof Liners and Rain Covers

We used waterproof liners inside our backpacks to ensure our gear kept dry. We both chose the Exped 22L Dry Bag, which is lightweight, made from recycled materials and Bluesign ® approved.

We also each had rain covers for our packs. Mark’s backpack came with a rain cover; mine didn’t, so I purchased the Osprey Ultralight High-Vis Raincover (Small) – recycled, bluesign®-approved, fluorocarbon-free DWR. Having tested my backpack on Mount Snowdon in the UK and discovered it leaked badly in the rain, I was so grateful for the rain cover on the TMB!

Sharon in full waterproof kit on the board walk near Lac de la Flégère — *Carrying waterproofs is essential on the TMB as the weather can change in a flash. Here I am in my full waterproof kit on the board walk near Lac de la Flégère*

Here’s what I carried in my daypack each day:

2 bottles of water
Insulated jacket (packs into its pocket)
Waterproof jacket
Waterproof trousers
Waterproof socks
Change of t-shirt
Lightweight fleece
Wet wipes, toilet paper + small bag for used wipes/paper
Sunglasses, suncream, lip balm, sun hat
Walking poles
Phone + waterproof pouch
Waterproof backpack liner & cover

Mark packed similarly, plus our lunch, snacks, maps, guide book, compass, first-aid kit, and power bank.

We used everything we took with us – apart from the first-aid kit, which we were very happy not to need!

Sharon on the TMB, about to embark on a steep climb in the Aiguilles Rouges — *I was grateful for a lightweight day backpack on steep climbs like this one in the Aiguilles Rouges!*

Final Thoughts

The key to happy vegan hiking is comfort, preparedness, and compassion – not just for yourself, but for the planet and all living beings.

Whether you’re gearing up for the Tour du Mont Blanc or another long-distance trek, I hope this guide inspires you to find the sweet balance of practicality, ethics, and joy in every step.

Have you already hiked the TMB as a vegan? I’d love to hear your top tips and favourite vegan hiking essentials – please share them in the comments below!

With love,

Sharon xx

Vegan Dessert at 4810 We Are Food, Courmayeur, Italy

Vegan Food Diary on the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB): What We Ate Stage by Stage

Published on November 14, 2025November 20, 2025 by Sharon4 Comments

Introduction

Are you planning on hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc as a vegan? You’re in the right place! In this post, I share a detailed, stage-by-stage account of what we ate each day on our 2025 TMB adventure – including where we stayed, vegan-friendly restaurants, and handy tips for staying well-fed along the route.

While the Alps are known more for cheese fondue and raclette than plant-based dining, with a little preparation, it’s absolutely possible to complete the TMB as a happy, well-fed vegan!

And, if you haven’t already, you might like to check out my earlier post – Top Tips for Hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) as a Vegan – where I share all our preparation advice and planning recommendations.

Arrival Day – Les Houches
Stage 1 – Les Houches → Les Contamines
Stage 2 – Les Contamines → Les Chapieux
Stage 3 – Refuge des Mottets → Courmayeur
Rest Day – Courmayeur
Stage 4 – Courmayeur → Rifugio Bonatti
Stage 5 – Arnouva → La Fouly
Stage 6 – La Fouly → Champex-Lac
Stage 7 – Champex-Lac → Col de la Forclaz
Stage 8 – Trient → Tre-Le-Champ
Stage 9 – Tre-Le-Champ → Planpraz via Lac Blanc
Stage 10 – Planpraz → Les Houches
Final Thoughts

Pin for Later ↓

Tour du Mont Blanc Vegan Food Diary Pinterest Pin

Arrival Day – Les Houches

We arrived very late in Les Houches – around 11:30pm after plane and bus delays. Thankfully, the kind staff at Hôtel St Antoine stayed up to let us in.

In our email exchange before arrival, the hotel had confirmed that they could make us a vegan dinner (likely a cheese-free pepper pizza) but sadly we were too late for the kitchen this time.

If we visit Les Houches again, we won’t stay half-board, as there’s a great vegan-friendly restaurant just down the road – Kitsch Inn – located at the base of the Bellevue cable car. I snapped a few pictures of their menu as we walked past on our way to the Bellevue Gondola for Stage 1 of the TMB. The vegan options sounded amazing!

Vegan Food at the Kitsch Inn, Les Houches, July 2025

*Vegan options at Kitsch Inn, Les Houches, July 2025*

Vegan dessert at the Kitsch Inn, Les Houches, July 2025 — *Kitsch Inn even had a vegan dessert on the menu!*

💚 Vegan Notes

Supermarkets in Les Houches – Carrefour Contact and Super U et Drive – are handy for bread, fruit, and vegan snacks for packed lunches.

Stage 1 – Les Houches → Les Contamines via Bionnassay

Beautiful Alpine view from our room at Hotel St Antoine, Les Houches — *We arrived in the dark to Hotel St Antoine but woke up to this beautiful Alpine view!*

Accommodation: Hôtel St Antoine (Half Board), Les Houches

Breakfast: Buffet-style breakfast with cereals, nuts, fruit, jam, bread, and plant milks – simple but satisfying.

Lunch: We hadn’t planned lunch well for this first Stage of the TMB, and ended up relying on snacks we’d brought from home. Luckily, it was one of the shorter stages, so we made up for it when we arrived in Les Contamines.

En route: Stopped at Auberge de Bionnassay for coffee and a comfort break; no vegan options on the menu.

Snacks: Vegan protein bars, trail mix, hickory smoked nuts from home.

Dinner: We can highly recommend Le Carnotzet in Les Contamines. We actually ended up eating there twice in one day – we headed there as soon as we finished the Stage to make up for our missed lunch, and then back again for dinner! The staff were very welcoming and attentive.

*Le Carnotzet Restaurant, Les Contamines, France*

The menu has several clearly labelled vegan options. Our favourites were the ‘Planche Vegetale’ (hummus, aubergine caviar, olive tapenade with bread), the vegan burger, and ‘Crozets à l’Italienne’ (pasta dish).

Vegan options at Le Carnotzet restaurant, Les Contamines

Our vegan lunch at Le Carnotzet, Les Contamines — *Enjoying a late vegan lunch at Le Carnotzet after completing Stage 1 of the TMB*!

Our vegan evening meal at Le Carnotzet, Les Contamines, France — *Back at Le Carnotzet for dinner. We love that this restaurant has a variety of vegan options, all clearly marked on the menu*

💚 Vegan Notes

One surprise on the TMB: we expected to at least find French Fries (‘frites’) en route – the vegan fallback meal – but we never saw them once on a refuge menu! Lesson learned: always pack your own lunch and snacks.
Le Carnotzet can get very busy in the evenings during TMB season, so definitely worth reserving a table in advance.

Stage 2 – Les Contamines → Les Chapieux via Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (then bus to Refuge des Mottets)

Gorgeous view from our room at Chalet Nant Rouge, Les Contamines — *Gorgeous view from our room at Chalet Nant Rouge*, Les Contamines

Accommodation: Chalet Nant Rouge (B&B), Les Contamines

Breakfast: Cereals, nuts, bread, jam, with almond or oat milk available on request.

Lunch: The owners of Chalet Nant Rouge kindly made us vegan baguettes for the hike – olive oil, hummus, and salad.

En route: Refuge de la Balme for a coffee and comfort break. They had oat milk available for our coffees – a lovely surprise! There was also a potentially vegan-friendly option on the menu, a veggie poke bowl (€21), though we didn’t need it as we had our baguettes.

*Refuge de la Balme, Col du Bonhomme, France*

Refuge de la Balme, Col du Bonhomme, July 2025 — *Menu at the Refuge de la Balme, July 2025*

Snacks: Trail mix, nuts, protein bars from home.

Dinner: After finishing the stage at Les Chapieux, we took a shuttle to Refuge des Mottets, where we stayed overnight. They prepared a lovely vegan dinner for us: vegetable soup with beans and bread, followed by a vegan “burger” with ratatouille and rice, and a pot of apple purée for dessert.

💚 Vegan Notes

Supermarkets in Les Contamines are fine for basic supplies, but expensive. In comparison, the baguette from Chalet Nant Rouge (€6) felt good value.

Stage 3 – Refuge des Mottets → Courmayeur via La Visaille

View of Refuge des Mottets, Vallée des Glaciers, Savoie, France — *Refuge des Mottets, Vallée des Glaciers, Savoie, France*

Accommodation: Refuge des Mottets (Half Board)

Breakfast: Basic for vegans – cereals, bread, jam, with plant milk on request.

Lunch: We asked the refuge if they could prepare vegan packed lunches (these need pre-ordering the day before; €14 per person, cash). It consisted of a salad sandwich and apple, but also chocolate biscuit bars containing milk that we couldn’t eat – a bit disappointing.

En Route: A highlight along the route was Rifugio Elisabetta, where we initially stopped for coffees and a rest, but ended up having lunch! They had a couple of vegan options on their menu (not labelled vegan, but confirmed by staff) – we each had a delicious Pasta Pomodoro with fresh basil (€12 each). The staff were lovely and spoke great English.

*View from Rifugio Elisabetta, Val Veny, Italy*

We also had a coffee stop at the Chalet del Miage Ristoro, (we sat out the back enjoying the breathtaking views!) We decided to walk all the way from here to Courmayeur which we ended up regretting as it was mainly on roads – should have taken the shuttle bus from La Visaille!

*Chalet del Miage Ristoro, La Visaille, Italy*

Snacks: Trail mix, nuts, protein bars from home.

Dinner: Pizzas from L’angolo di Mel, a pizzeria in La Courmayeur with two clearly labelled vegan pizzas on the menu (with vegan cheese!). We tried both – the Yoko was our favourite!

L’angolo di Mel pizza restaurant in La Courmayeur, Italy

Vegan pizzas on the menu at L’angolo di Mel, La Courmayeur, Italy — *So happy to find vegan pizzas on the menu at the Pizzeria L’angolo di Mel, with vegan cheese too!*

💚 Vegan Notes

Vegan breakfast options at refuges can be limited; dehydrated expedition meals can be a great option if you prefer savoury breakfasts or fancy some variety to your breakfasts!
The refuge-packed lunch was pricey for what it included. Next time, we’d skip it and rely on vegan meal bars and snacks.

Rest Day – Courmayeur

Hotel Bouton d'Or, Courmayeur — *We loved our three night stay at the Hotel Bouton d’Or, Courmayeur, Italy*

Accommodation: Hôtel Bouton d’Or (B&B), Courmayeur

Breakfast: Cereals, nuts, seeds, dried fruit, a selection of breads and jams, and peanut butter (the most delicious we’ve ever had!), with soya and almond milks – a perfect start to a restful day.

Lunch: 4810 We Are Food – just a 10-minute walk from town. Vegan-friendly, allergens clearly labelled. We had the grilled vegetable sandwich (not our favourite) and the Pink Velvet dessert, made with tofu and red fruits – this was absolutely divine!

*Pink Velvet vegan dessert at 4810 We Are Food, Courmayeur, Italy*

Dinner: Returned to 4810 We Are Food for their evening menu. We ordered the Seitan alla brace con verdure in agrodolce e salsa teriyaki – so delicious! Dessert was the Pink Velvet again – we couldn’t resist!

💚 Vegan Notes

Spending three nights in Courmayeur was perfect – vegan-friendly restaurants, supermarkets, and a fantastic hotel all in one place (our favourite on the whole trip!)
Carrefour Express in the centre of Courmayeur is great for stocking up on vegan supplies – we even found two ready-made vegan sandwiches by Fabian in this supermarket!The “64 Mumbai,” made with pea protein veggie bites was our favourite! Prices here were much cheaper than in France or Switzerland.

Fabian vegan sandwiches from the Carrefour Express in Courmayeur, Italy — *So happy to find vegan sandwiches at the Carrefour Express in Courmayeur!*

Stage 4 – Courmayeur → Rifugio Bonatti (then bus back to Courmayeur)

Accommodation: Hôtel Bouton d’Or (B&B), Courmayeur

Breakfast: Same as previous day – our favourite buffet of the trip!

Lunch: Ready-made vegan sandwiches, mini jam pots with bread, olive oil crackers, and chocolate-filled vegan cookies, all from Carrefour Express, Courmayeur.

En Route: We stopped at Rifugio Giorgio Bertone for coffees and a comfort break (didn’t see any vegan options on the menu)

*Rifugio Giorgio Bertone, Courmayeur, Aosta Valley, Italy*

Snacks: Trail mix, cashew nuts, protein bars, sesame snaps.

Dinner: Back in Courmayeur, we returned to L’angolo di Mel (we both chose the Yoko pizza this time!) and finished with a Pink Velvet dessert and soy cappuccino at 4810 We Are Food.

💚 Vegan Notes

Staying another night in Courmayeur is a huge advantage as there are far more vegan options here than at Rifugio Bonatti. The bus stop is just a 2km downhill walk from the Rifugio.
Stock up on vegan supplies at the Carrefour Express in Courmayeur; vegan options are very limited and expensive on the Swiss section of the TMB.
Enjoy vegan cheese pizzas while you can – they’re rare on the TMB!

Stage 5 – Arnouva → La Fouly (free bus from Courmayeur to Arnouva)

Accommodation: Hôtel Bouton d’Or (B&B), Courmayeur

Breakfast: Same as previous days.

Lunch: Ready-made vegan sandwiches, crackers, jam, vegan cookies filled with chocolate hazelnut paste, trail mix (all from Carrefour Express in Courmayeur) plus trail mix and nuts from home.

Vegan packed lunch on the TMB — *Our vegan packed lunch on Stage 5 of the TMB, Italy*

En route: Refuge Elena for coffees and a comfort break.

*Refuge Elena, Courmayeur, Aosta Valley, Italy*

Dinner: We enjoyed a lovely meal at the Hotel Edelweiss (where we were staying overnight, half board) – fresh salad starter, followed by smoked tofu with rice, lentils, and ratatouille. Dessert was a simple apple. Staff were allergy-aware and already had our vegan meal request on record.

💚 Vegan Notes

Food choice in La Fouly are very limited. Booking half-board accommodation and emailing ahead to request vegan meals is strongly recommended.
The Swiss TMB sections are extremely expensive – even basic items at La Fouly supermarket are pricey (e.g. €4 for a packet of crisps).

Stage 6 – La Fouly → Champex-Lac

*Hotel L’Edelweiss, La Fouly, Switzerland*

Accommodation: Hotel L’Edelweiss (Half-Board), La Fouly

Breakfast: Cereals, seeds, fruit, bread, jam; plant milk available on request.

Lunch: We asked the Hotel Edelweiss if they could prepare us a vegan packed lunch for the following day – it consisted of a smoked tofu and salad sandwich, plus a piece of fruit (€14 per person).

En Route: We didn’t stop at any refuges on the stage (I don’t think we saw one!)

Snacks: Trail mix, nuts, sesame snaps

Dinner: Pension en Plein Air (where we were staying half-board) provided a lovely vegan dinner – vegetable soup and bread as a starter, smoked tofu with herbed potatoes and spinach for the main, and fruit salad for dessert. Staff had our vegan meal request on record and brought it to our table in the dining hall (meat eaters had a buffet).

💚 Vegan Notes

The packed lunch from Hotel Edelweiss was very pricey; next time, we’d skip it and bring a vegan meal bar from home and extra snacks.
Champex-Lac has very limited evening meal options, so booking half-board is strongly recommended.
The Edelweiss supermarket offered a few vegan items. We were thrilled to discover the vegan Blueberry Cookie Magnum in their ice cream cabinet – the perfect post-stage treat by the lake!

Champex-Lac, Switzerland — *Champex-Lac – where we sat and enjoyed a vegan Magnum after completing Stage 6*

Stage 7 – Champex-Lac → Col de la Forclaz via Alpage de Bovine (then taxi transfer to Martigny)

Accommodation: Pension en Plein Air (Half-Board), Champex-Lac

Breakfast: Cereals, bread, jam; plant milk available on request.

Lunch: A fresh loaf of bread from the Edelweiss supermarket (which we enjoyed with the mini pots of jam we’d bought in Courmaeyur), and Vaya hummus chips which we discovered in the Edelweiss supermarket – clearly marked vegan and so tasty!

*Vaya Hummus Chips from Edelweiss supermarket, Champex-Lac, Switzerland*

En route: Coffee stop at Alpage de Bovine.

*Alpage de Bovine, Martigny-Combe, Switzerland*

Snacks: Trail mix, protein bars, nuts.

Dinner: Le Bowl, Martigny – delicious poke-style bowls with tofu, grains, veggies, and teriyaki dressing. Dessert was Alpro mango yogurt and dark chocolate from ALDI SUISSE in Martigny.

💚 Vegan Notes

Col de la Forclaz has very limited accommodation and vegan food options. We were really glad that our tour company, Mac’s Adventures, arranged a taxi to Martigny – this gave us access to vegan dinner options and an ALDI supermarket for a major snack stock-up. (I share more about our experiences with Mac’s Adventures in this post).

Our vegan food haul from ALDI in Martigny, Switzerland! — *Our vegan food haul from ALDI in Martigny*, Switzerland!

Stage 8 – Trient → Tré-Le-Champ (taxi transfer from Martigny to Trient; bus from Tré-Le-Champ to Chamonix)

Accommodation: mARTigny Boutique Hôtel (B&B), Martigny

Breakfast: Cereals, bread, jam; plant milk on request.

Lunch: Vegan ready-made sandwiches (tofu & olive; seitan & mushroom), hummus chips, cookies, apples – all from ALDI, Martigny.

En Route: Coffee stop at Refuge du Col de Balme.

*Refuge du Col de Balme, Trient, Switzerland*

Snacks: Vegan protein bars, trail mix, nuts, dark chocolate – all from ALDI, Martigny.

Dinner: Sesame, Chamonix – a veggie restaurant, where almost all items on the menu are vegan! (‘Végétalien’). We had falafel bowls, sweet potato fries, and fresh smoothies. Staff were very friendly and helpful.

Sesame Cafe, Chamonix, France - great vegan dinner options! — *Sesame Cafe, Chamonix, France – great vegan dinner options!*

💚 Vegan Notes

Tre-Le-Champ has very limited options for vegans, so staying in Chamonix was ideal.
Chamonix has several vegan-friendly restaurants, supermarkets, and a health food shop – Cham Bio – where we were able to stock up on Taifun tofu and other items for our packed lunches.

Stage 9 – Tré-Le-Champ → Planpraz via Lac Blanc (bus from Chamonix to Tré-le-Champ; cable car from Planpraz to Chamonix)

Accommodation: Chalet Hotel Le Prieuré (B&B), Chamonix

Breakfast: Buffet with cereals, nuts, dried fruits, bread, jam, and plant milk.

Lunch: Self-made tofu and hummus sandwiches, rice crackers.

En Route: We stopped at Refuge du Lac Blanc for coffees and to shelter from the rain. Note: no water taps (bottled water for sale at around €5); toilets are locked and for overnight guests only.

Stunning view of Lac de la Flégère — *We hiked down to Lac de la Flégère from Refuge du Lac Blanc. When the clouds cleared, the views were breathtaking!*

Snacks: Protein bars, trail mix, nuts.

Dinner: Annapurna Indian Restaurant, which has extensive vegetarian menu with vegan options clearly marked. We had the Rajma Masala, Ayurvedic Tharka Dal, poppadums with vegan chutneys, and chapattis. All delicious! Dessert: We shared a pot of Alpro mango yogurt (from the SPA supermarket across the road).

*Annapurna Indian Restaurant, Chamonix, France*

*Annapurna vegetarian menu, July 2025. Everything with an asterix is vegan (or can be made vegan!)*

💚 Vegan Notes

Stocking up on tofu, hummus, bread, and crackers in Chamonix made lunches easier.
The staff at Annapurna were really friendly and understood vegan requirements perfectly – a great dinner spot!

Stage 10 – Planpraz → Les Houches (Chamonix cable car to Planpraz; train from Les Houches to Chamonix)

Accommodation: Chalet Hotel Le Prieuré (B&B), Chamonix

Breakfast: Same as Stage 9.

Lunch: Self-made tofu and hummus sandwiches, rice crackers, apples, dark chocolate.

En route: we stopped at Refuge Bellachat – the coffee here was rough, but the breathtaking views made up for it!

Snacks: Protein bars, trail mix, nuts, sesame snaps.

Dinner: We returned to Sesame in Chamonix where we enjoyed seitan noodle bowls and a big plate of sweet potato fries. Dessert: our favourite Alpro mango yogurt again!

💚 Vegan Notes

If staying in Les Houches, Kitsch Inn is the go-to for vegan dinner. We chose to head back to Chamonix to shower and change, so we could celebrate completing the TMB in comfort!

Sharon and Mark at the TMB arch in Les Houches — *We made it! Back at the arch in Les Houches, where we started*

Final Thoughts

Hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc as a vegan is absolutely doable – but it does require some forward planning and realistic expectations. We were pleasantly surprised by the number of vegan-friendly restaurants we discovered along the way. (I’ve pinned all the vegan-friendly places we found – including those we didn’t have time to visit – on this Google Map, which might be helpful if you’re planning your own TMB adventure!)

Every hotel and refuge we stayed at was able to accommodate us with vegan meals, even in remote locations – you just need to email ahead to give notice. I share more on this in my Top Tips for Hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) as a Vegan post, including sample emails we sent and tips for making sure your meals are covered.

Have you hiked the TMB as a vegan? If so, I’d love to hear your favourite food finds, and any tips you have for fellow vegan hikers – please share them in the comments below!

With love,

Sharon xx

Hikers enjoying lunch overlooking the Aosta Valley, Italy

Top Tips for Hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) as a Vegan

Published on November 14, 2025November 20, 2025 by SharonLeave a comment

Introduction

In July 2025, my husband, Mark, and I completed the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) – the iconic 170 km hiking route that circumnavigates Mont Blanc, crossing through France, Italy, and Switzerland.

It truly was a dream trip. But we had one extra challenge: doing it vegan!

The Alps are famous for cheese, fondue, and raclette – not exactly vegan-friendly fare. And with my dairy allergy, I have to be extra careful to avoid even small traces of dairy. But we were up for the challenge, and I’m so glad we did it!

In this post, I’ll share what we learned, plus all our best tips to help you plan your own vegan TMB adventure with confidence.

Planning is Key
Booking Accommodation
Email Ahead to Request Vegan Food
Research Vegan-Friendly Spots
Plan by Stage
What to Bring from Home
Managing Expectations
Final Thoughts

Pin for Later ↓

Vegan Hiking Tips for the Tour du Mont Blanc

Planning is Key

Good planning and forward prep make all the difference!

I actually loved this stage – researching the route, finding vegan-friendly places to eat along the way, and reading lots of reviews. By the time we left the UK, I felt fully prepared and excited for the adventure ahead.

Maps and guide books for planning our TMB adventure

Booking Accommodation

The TMB is incredibly popular, with a short hiking window (usually July–September) and limited accommodation, especially in the smaller mountain hamlets. We booked in January 2025 for our July trip – and even then, some refuges and hotels were already full! Ideally, try to book 8–10 months in advance (even up to a year, if possible).

You can either:

Book independently – more flexible and potentially cheaper, but can be time-consuming and a logistical challenge to coordinate accommodation (and luggage transfers) along the TMB route.
Book through a tour company – more convenient as they handle all logistics, but can be a bit pricier.

We chose Mac’s Adventures to organise our self-guided TMB trip, and they were amazing! They arranged all our accommodation, daily luggage transfers, and even taxi transfers where needed, removing a huge amount of the stress and time it would’ve taken for us to do all this ourselves.

We appreciated that we could actually talk to someone on the phone about our vegan needs. Rhona from Mac’s Adventures was particularly helpful, suggesting we stay in larger towns where vegan options were better – and that advice made a real difference for us.

We chose their Complete Tour du Mont Blanc in Comfort package, which included mostly hotel stays, with one or two refuge-style nights, where hotels weren’t available. The booking process took about six weeks, and once confirmed, Mac’s Adventures provided an app with all our accommodation details and route maps. This app was invaluable for navigating, viewing alternative trails, and checking distances each day.

Overall, the package felt good value – especially considering how expensive accommodation can be along the TMB route. Some of our stays, like the Bouton D’Or in Courmayeur, exceeded our expectations and felt like such a treat after long hiking days.

Our elegant bedroom in the Hotel Bouton d'Or, Courmayeur — *The Hotel Bouton D’Or is so elegant, yet the family owners are so welcoming to TMB hikers!*

Would We Recommend Booking Through a Tour Company?

While we only have experience with Mac’s Adventures, we can wholeheartedly recommend them, especially if, like us, it’s your first time hiking the TMB.

Pros:

All logistics handled (accommodation, luggage transfers, any taxi transfers)
Expert advice to tailor your trip (e.g. choosing the most vegan-friendly stops)
Easy communication and great support before and during the hike
Handy app with route maps, and daily info all in one place

Cons:

Can be more expensive than booking everything independently
Less flexibility if you like to change plans on the go

For us, the peace of mind and time saved made it completely worth it – we could simply focus on hiking, eating, and soaking up those incredible views!

Email Ahead to Request Vegan Food

Once your accommodation is booked, email each place to request vegan meals – even if you’ve already noted it in your booking.

I recommend doing this 1–2 weeks before arrival, ideally in both English and French (Google Translate is a great help!) Every place we contacted replied within 24 hours, which was so reassuring!

👉 Tip: Clearly explain what “vegan” means – no meat, fish, dairy, eggs, or honey – as it’s not always well understood.

Here are two examples of the emails I sent:

– Sample vegan breakfast request email

Sujet: Demande de petit-déjeuner végan – Du vendredi 11 au dimanche 13 juillet

Bonjour à l’équipe de l’Hôtel Bouton d’Or,

J’espère que ce message vous trouve en bonne santé.

Mon mari et moi avons une réservation chez vous pour trois nuits, du jeudi 10 juillet au dimanche 13 juillet, dans le cadre d’un Tour du Mont Blanc organisé par Mac’s Adventures. La réservation est au nom de Mark Stephens, et nous sommes en formule petit-déjeuner uniquement.

Nous sommes tous les deux véganes et souhaitions vous en informer à l’avance. Cela signifie que nous ne consommons aucun produit d’origine animale, y compris la viande, le poisson, les produits laitiers, les œufs ou le miel. (J’ai également une allergie aux produits laitiers, donc je dois être particulièrement vigilante.)

Nous comprenons que les options véganes peuvent être limitées dans les Alpes, mais nous voulions savoir s’il serait possible de prévoir un lait végétal, comme du lait d’avoine ou de soja, pour le petit-déjeuner des vendredi 11, samedi 12 et dimanche 13 juillet (pour le café et les céréales) ?

N’hésitez pas à nous contacter si vous avez besoin de plus d’informations.

Un grand merci d’avance pour votre attention et votre aide !

Avec nos salutations les plus chaleureuses,

Sharon Collins et Mark Stephens
———————————-

Dear Hotel Bouton d’Or Team,

I hope this message finds you well.

My husband and I have a reservation at your hotel for three nights from Thursday 10th July to Sunday 13th July, as part of a Tour du Mont Blanc trip arranged by Mac’s Adventures. The booking will be under the name Mark Stephens, and we are booked on a bed & breakfast basis.

We are both vegan and wanted to inform you in advance. This means we do not eat any animal products, including meat, fish, dairy, eggs, or honey. (I also have a dairy allergy, so need to be extra careful.)

We understand that vegan options in the Alps can be limited, but we were wondering if it would be possible to have a plant milk, such as oat or soya milk, available for breakfast on the mornings of Friday 11th, Saturday 12th, and Sunday 13th July (for our coffees and cereal)?

Please let us know if you need any further information.

Thank you so much in advance for your kind attention and support!

With warm regards,

Sharon Collins and Mark Stephens

– Sample vegan breakfast & dinner request email

Sujet: Demande de repas végan pour notre séjour – Mercredi 9 juillet

Bonjour à l’équipe du Refuge Les Mottets,

J’espère que ce message vous trouve en bonne santé.

Mon mari et moi avons une réservation chez vous le mercredi 9 juillet, dans le cadre d’un Tour du Mont Blanc organisé par Mac’s Adventures. La réservation sera au nom de Mark Stephens, et nous avons réservé en demi-pension (petit-déjeuner et dîner).

Nous sommes tous les deux véganes, et souhaitions vous en informer à l’avance. Cela signifie que nous ne consommons aucun produit d’origine animale, y compris la viande, le poisson, les produits laitiers, les œufs ou le miel. (J’ai également une allergie aux produits laitiers, donc je dois être particulièrement vigilante.)

Nous comprenons que les options véganes peuvent être limitées dans les Alpes, mais nous nous demandions s’il serait possible d’avoir un lait végétal (par exemple lait d’avoine ou de soja) disponible au petit-déjeuner, pour le café et les céréales ?

Pour le dîner, pourriez-vous nous proposer un repas végane? Même un repas simple à base de légumes, légumineuses, céréales, huile d’olive, etc. serait très apprécié.

N’hésitez pas à nous contacter si vous avez besoin de plus d’informations.

Un grand merci d’avance pour votre attention et votre aide !

Avec nos salutations les plus chaleureuses,

Sharon Collins et Mark Stephens

———————————-

Subject: Vegan Meal Request – Wednesday 9th July

Dear Refuge Les Mottets team,

I hope this message finds you well.

My husband and I have a reservation at your hotel on Wednesday 9th July, as part of a Tour du Mont Blanc trip arranged by Mac’s Adventures. The booking will be under the name Mark Stephens, and we are booked on a half-board basis (breakfast and dinner).

We understand that vegan options in the Alps can be limited, but we were wondering if it would be possible to have a plant milk, such as oat or soya milk, available for breakfast (for our coffees and cereal)?

Also, would it be possible to provide a vegan dinner? Even a simple meal using vegetables, pulses, grains, and olive oil would be much appreciated.

Please let us know if you need any further information. Thank you so much in advance for your kind attention and support!

With warm regards,

Sharon Collins and Mark Stephens

Research Vegan-Friendly Spots

Before the trip, I researched vegan-friendly cafés, restaurants, supermarkets, and health food stores along the route.

My go-to tools were:

Google Maps – search “vegan” near your accommodation, and filter reviews for vegan mentions.
TripAdvisor – search for vegan restaurants in each location, then add ‘vegan’ into the review section to filter reviews.
HappyCow – a great app and website for locating vegan-friendly spots anywhere.

I pinned all my finds on a custom Google Map called TMB Vegan Food 2025. I also added supermarkets and health food shops where we could grab lunch supplies and snacks.

This gave me such peace of mind – I knew exactly where vegan meals were available, and which stages would be trickier and need extra forward planning.

Plan by Stage

In general:

Larger towns (Courmayeur, Chamonix, Les Houches) have more vegan options.
Remote areas (Les Mottets, La Fouly, Champex-Lac) have very limited choices – it’s best to stay half-board and email ahead to request vegan meals.

If you’re planning your own vegan TMB adventure, you may find our Vegan Food Diary on the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) blog post helpful.

View of Refuge des Mottets — *Les Mottets was the most remote place we stayed on the TMB – we were so grateful we’d booked half-board!*

What to Bring from Home

Bringing a few essential vegan supplies from home makes all the difference:

Trail mixes (nuts, seeds, dried fruits, dark chocolate)
Vegan protein bars (e.g. Trek, Nakd)
Vegan meal bars (e.g. Real Meal)*
Dehydrated expedition meals (e.g. Firepot vegan range)**
Vegan treats (e.g. chocolate, oat bars)
Vegan multivitamins (especially with B12 and calcium, as most plant milks served were unfortified ones)

* We didn’t take these but they would have been so handy for the remote stages of the Tour. We’ll definitely bring a couple each next time!

** Even though we didn’t end up needing these, it was comforting to know we had a couple of backup meals in case of emergency.

Managing Expectations

Vegan options are limited in the Alps – especially in remote areas.

Don’t expect much choice, especially in the refuges. We were just thrilled that they could offer us a hot, hearty meal, and it saved us from resorting to our emergency supplies!

Always pack your own lunch and snacks, so you’re never caught short.

Honestly, we went into the trip with very low expectations food-wise, but thanks to planning and preparation, we were more than fine. (As you’ll see in our TMB Food Diary!) We enjoyed some truly delicious vegan meals along the way, and our packed lunches were often little feasts in themselves.

Final Thoughts

If you’ve been dreaming of hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc but worrying about doing it vegan – go for it!

With a bit of forward planning and realistic expectations, it’s absolutely doable. You’ll be rewarded with breathtaking scenery, a huge sense of accomplishment, and (yes!) some delicious meals along the way.

Here are two more posts we wrote about our experiences on the TMB, which you might find helpful if you’re planning your own vegan adventure:

Have you already hiked the TMB as a vegan? If so, I’d love to hear your top tips, favourite vegan finds, and any advice you’d like to share with fellow hikers – please share them in the comments below!

With love,

Sharon xx

Introduction

Contents

Pin for Later ↓

Vegan-Friendly Hiking Boots

Hiking Socks (Merino-Free)

Waterproof Jackets and Trousers (Fluorocarbon-free)

Insulated Jackets (Down-Free)

Vegan Food and Snacks

Backpacks

Waterproof Liners and Rain Covers

Final Thoughts

Introduction

Contents

Pin for Later ↓

Arrival Day – Les Houches

💚 Vegan Notes

Stage 1 – Les Houches → Les Contamines via Bionnassay

💚 Vegan Notes

Stage 2 – Les Contamines → Les Chapieux via Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (then bus to Refuge des Mottets)

💚 Vegan Notes

Stage 3 – Refuge des Mottets → Courmayeur via La Visaille

💚 Vegan Notes

Rest Day – Courmayeur

💚 Vegan Notes

Stage 4 – Courmayeur → Rifugio Bonatti (then bus back to Courmayeur)

💚 Vegan Notes

Stage 5 – Arnouva → La Fouly (free bus from Courmayeur to Arnouva)

💚 Vegan Notes

Stage 6 – La Fouly → Champex-Lac

💚 Vegan Notes

Stage 7 – Champex-Lac → Col de la Forclaz via Alpage de Bovine (then taxi transfer to Martigny)

💚 Vegan Notes

Stage 8 – Trient → Tré-Le-Champ (taxi transfer from Martigny to Trient; bus from Tré-Le-Champ to Chamonix)

💚 Vegan Notes

Stage 9 – Tré-Le-Champ → Planpraz via Lac Blanc (bus from Chamonix to Tré-le-Champ; cable car from Planpraz to Chamonix)

💚 Vegan Notes

Stage 10 – Planpraz → Les Houches (Chamonix cable car to Planpraz; train from Les Houches to Chamonix)

💚 Vegan Notes

Final Thoughts

Introduction

Contents

Pin for Later ↓

Planning is Key

Booking Accommodation

Email Ahead to Request Vegan Food

Research Vegan-Friendly Spots

Plan by Stage

What to Bring from Home

Managing Expectations

Final Thoughts